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Welcome to the Blog!

Create Indoor Blooms With Winter-Flowering Trees and Shrubs

1/4/2023

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by JoAnne K., Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer
During these dreary winter days, gardeners yearn for some sign of color to bring indoors to promise that spring is on its way. However, the garden has little to offer in the way of colorful cut flowers for indoor bouquets in January and February. But there is a way to bring color inside by forcing the stems of winter – and spring-flowering trees and shrubs to bloom.
Forcing is simply a method to get flowers to bloom out of season as is done with bulbs for seasonal displays.

This same procedure can also be used to get branches of woody plants to flower ahead of their normal bloom time.

Flower buds of winter- and spring-flowering trees and shrubs were formed last summer and fall. After a period of dormancy, these buds will start to swell as temperatures moderate.

By cutting the branches and bringing them indoors, warmer house temperatures will speed up the process of breaking dormancy.

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Red Quince, Chaenomeles japonica
For the best results, look for branches with many enlarged buds that are starting to show some color. The closer the buds are to actual bloom time, the more successful the flowering will be.
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Paperbush, Edgeworthia chrysantha
For a clean cut, use a pair of sharp pruners to cut the branch at an angle.

Cut a slit at the end of each stem to increase the branch's water uptake.

Immediately place the cut branches in a bucket of warm water. Once inside, make a new cut at the base of the branch.

For larger branches, you may want to mash the stem base with a hammer to increase the water uptake.

Successful forcing requires both warm indoor temperatures and a good uptake of water into the stems.

Before placing the stems in a vase with warm water, remove any buds, twigs, or leaves that will be under water.

For best results, place the vase in a cool area with bright light but out of direct sunlight to prolong flowering.

Change the water every two or three days to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi that can obstruct water flow into the stems shortening bloom time.

Bloom time varies by species and how close the buds are to their outdoor flowering time. Forsythia may bloom in less than a week indoors, while magnolias make require several weeks.

In eastern North Carolina, flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa and cultivars), forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), paperbush (Edgeworthia), and bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea prunifolia) are good choices to bring in now as their buds are swelling and flower color is beginning to appear.


Star magnolia (Magnolia stellata), saucer magnolia (Magnolia x soulangeana), redbud (Cercis canadenses), flowering cherries (Prunus species and cultivars), and flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) buds will be ready a bit later.
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Winter Jasmine, Jasmine nudiflorum, with White Quince, Chaenomeles speciosa
If your cuttings have not opened after about four weeks, they were cut too early. Try again with new cuttings.

Through trial and error, you'll discover the flowering trees and shrubs that work best for you and when is the best time to bring them indoors.

While waiting for the beginning of the spring planting season, bringing some woody branches inside to flower is a fun way to enjoy some winter gardening.

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A Unique Wreath for Every Participant

12/11/2022

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Since the Arboretum contains dozens of different types of trees and many shades of berries, it’s not surprising that each of the twenty participants at the Wreath Making Workshop on December 8 created a distinct work of art for the holiday season.
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Some wreaths were many tones of green, while others included pine cones and berries for ornamentation. Others were lush creations befitting a royal palace.
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Participants enjoyed the process of making their wreath as much as they marveled over their finished creations.
Thanks to the Master Gardener volunteers who organized the workshop, wrapped the Styrofoam forms, gathered greenery and berries from the gardens, provided assistance at the workshop, and took photos of the completed wreaths for everyone to admire on the website. Special thanks to Teresa Surratt, the Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer who led the workshop.
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The Magic of Mistletoe

12/11/2022

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By Joanne K., Extension Master Gardener Volunteer, Pitt County Arboretum
In late fall after the leaves have fallen from most trees, passersby may wonder what are those bright green orbs floating high in the treetops throughout our neighborhoods. As Eastern North Carolinians know, these balls are our native mistletoe, a favorite plant in Christmas decorations.

American mistletoe grows from New Jersey to Florida and west through Texas in deciduous trees. The dwarf mistletoe grows in the western U.S. and Mexico in certain western junipers and pines. Mistletoe is harvested commercially in New Mexico, Texas, and Oklahoma.


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American mistletoe (Phoradendron leucarpum)
American mistletoe (Phoradendron leucarpum) is a native evergreen shrub with greenish branches. The shrub grows as a parasite on tree limbs. Its vibrant green branches and leaves make it look very much alive in winter when many other shrubs are bare.

Its inconspicuous yellow flowers and white berries are loved by birds, butterflies, and other pollinators. However, the berries are poisonous to humans, cats, dogs, and horses, but only if eaten in large quantities.

The mistletoe berry is very sticky, and thanks to the birds, either through their droppings or the wiping of their beaks on branches, the seeds stick and spread through the treetops.

Mistletoe has a long history in folklore. In a Norse legend, Balder, the son of Frigga, the goddess of love, is killed by an arrow fashioned from a mistletoe sprig. Frigga's tears fell on the mistletoe, turning her tears into white berries.

Frigga decreed that mistletoe should never cause harm again and should only be used to promote love and peace. This led to the practice where enemies meeting under mistletoe had to disarm, exchange a kiss of peace, and call a truce for the day.

Ancient Greeks thought the mistletoe had healing properties, using it as a remedy for various disorders, as well as an aphrodisiac.

The Druids thought mistletoe was a sacred plant because it doesn't grow from roots in the ground. The Druids wore mistletoe for good luck and protection from evil spirits. Mistletoe over a doorway allowed only happiness to enter the house.

In the 1700s in northern Europe, kissing balls with mistletoe hung in doorways. A single lady giving a kiss under the mistletoe increased her chances of marriage.

In England, young girls placed a mistletoe leaf under their pillows to dream about the man they wanted to marry.

In a tradition familiar to Eastern North Carolinians, the Swiss shot mistletoe out of the trees with an arrow.

Photosynthesis provides food for mistletoe, but water and minerals come from the host tree.

While the slow-growing mistletoe won't kill a healthy tree, a heavy infestation of it can harm a tree weakened by pests, storms, or old age. The infected tree then becomes more susceptible to other tree pests and diseases.

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If you want to rid your tree of mistletoe, you must prune the infected branches in winter. Cutting off the plant does not destroy the parasite that is the harmful pest.

When hanging mistletoe over the holidays, be careful to keep the plant and its poisonous berries out of the reach of children and pets.

Also avoid hanging it above any heat-producing source, which will cause it to dry out much faster and become a fire hazard.

Google 'mistletoe lore' for more of the legends about this fascinating ancient plant.


Photos are from the NCSU plant toolbox.
1. mistletoe_031110_LIT_j2u5NyxjcdwH  
Fall Tree
Jim Robbins 
CC BY-NC-ND 4.0

2. Phoradendron_leucarp_SnCegNDnRhzu.jpeg
Leaves and Flower
Mary Keim
CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

3. Phoradendron_leucarp_ukWXqjzH3XLU
Leaves
Loadmaster (David R. Tribble)
CC BY-SA 3.0





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How to Keep Your Christmas Cactus Blooming for Years

11/21/2022

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By Joanne K, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer, Pitt County Arboretum
With the holidays upon us, many colorful blooms have appeared in our local stores. What says holiday cheer more than a beautiful blooming Christmas cactus in your living room with its gorgeous array of red, pink, yellow, orange, white, or purple blooms? Depending on the species, your cactus may bloom at Thanksgiving or Christmas, providing color during the holidays.

How to tell them apart? Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) is also known as holiday cactus or crab cactus. Crab refers to the two to four saw-toothed projections or claws along the stem edges. Its pollen is yellow. On a Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera russelliana), the projections are more rounded or teardrop-shaped than pointed. Its pollen is purplish-brown.

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Schlumbergera truncata
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Schlumbergera russelliana
Once it stops flowering, you may ask will it come back next year. With a little care, it's a plant that will bring pleasure year after year and become a family heirloom.

While your plant is in bloom, place it in bright, indirect light with daytime temperatures of 70° F and evening temperatures of 60°-65° F. Keep away from blasts of heat or cold.


Although called a cactus, the Christmas cactus does need water, but not too much. It's time to water it when the top couple of inches feel dry to the touch. Don't overwater, as that can lead to stem and root rot. Too little water can cause wilting.

A native of shady, humid South American rain forests, this cactus also needs humidity. Place it on a tray with pebbles and water just below the top of the pebbles. Continue this until the cactus stops blooming.

Misting the cactus frequently also increases humidity.

Don't fertilize your Christmas cactus while blooming, as that can cause bud drop.

To keep this long-lived plant growing, stop watering for six weeks after flowering. When new growth appears, resume watering and fertilizing. Use plant food formulated for succulents. Follow label instructions or use a half-rate of liquid houseplant fertilizer every other week.

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Schlumbergera x buckleyi
The Christmas cactus likes to be pot-bound. Keep it in a small container as long as possible, and only then transplant it to a slightly larger pot using a mix of half potting soil and half sand or perlite. Late winter or spring is the ideal time to transplant the cactus after the blooms have dropped. Never transplant it while it is blooming.

If needed, prune a cactus just after it has bloomed. This is when it starts to grow. Pruning forces it to branch out and grow more stems.

After the danger of frost is over, move your plant outside to an area with bright, indirect light. Too much sun can cause wilting or stem burn.

To encourage budding in the fall, 16 hours of uninterrupted darkness, 8 hours of daylight, and cooler temperatures are required. To stimulate bud formation, don't fertilize or overwater at this time. Avoid moving the plant because doing so can make the buds may fall off. Once buds form, the light/dark regiment ends. Continue watering but don't fertilize.

Move indoors when temperatures below 50° F are predicted. However, spray with water before moving the plant to dislodge any insects that may have taken up residence.
 
According to the Old Farmers Alamanac, Christmas cacti can live up to 20 to 30 years. By following the simple guidelines described above, you will enjoy your Christmas cactus for years to come!

Pictures:

From NCSU Plant Toolbox

Christmas Cactus, Schlumbergera russelliana (Also known as Schlumbergera bridgesii)

Flowers and stems
Wayne Rae
Public Domain Mark 1.0

Thanksgiving Cactus, Schlumbergera truncata
J. Kollar

Bloom: Schlumbergera x buckleyi

Tracy from North Brookfield, Massachusetts, usa CC BY 2.0
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Making a Terrarium

11/7/2022

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By Robert C, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer, Pitt County Arboretum
A terrarium is a beautiful miniature jungle for your home contained in a bottle. It makes a great conversation piece and requires minimal care. It needs watering once a month, once a year or even longer periods, depending on its design. It likes a little sun but too much as it gets hot inside the bottle.
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Here is an example of an established terrarium. It was easy to build and this blog is going to describe how to make it. We’ll list some suitable plant choices at the end.
Materials:

5 or 10 gallon bottle
Cork or stopper (optional)
Paper - make a wide mouth funnel from the paper
Spoon taped to a bamboo stick
Gravel
Activated charcoal
Screen material
Worm castings (optional)
Potting or terrarium soil
4 or 5 plants

The bottle can be glass or plastic and should have a neck large enough to drop 2 inch plants through. This example used a 5 gallon plastic brewing carboy.

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This can get a little messy, so you may want to do this at an outdoor table or have lots of newspaper lining your worktable.

Make a funnel from a newspaper or construction paper. The narrow end of the funnel should be slightly smaller than the bottle neck.  Materials will be dropped into the bottle with the funnel and the funnel can clog if the neck of the funnel is too small. The bamboo stick can be used to coax material in.


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Drop in a layer of pebbles that is about ½ to 1 inch thick. Aquarium pebbles come in a variety of pretty colors. The purpose of this layer is to act as a drainage water reservoir.
 
Use the paper funnel to guide the pebbles in. If your bottle is glass, be careful not to add pebbles too rapidly as the repeated “drip” of rocks can shatter the glass.
 
Use the spoon taped on the end of the bamboo stick to level the pebble layer.
 
Next add a layer of activated charcoal. This acts as filtration for the water.


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We want to stop the dirt from working its way in to the pebble basin and we can do this by cutting a window screen to size. It will act as a barrier between the water reservoir and the dirt.
 
The screen can be rolled up and dropped through the bottle neck and then use your spoon-on-a-stick tool to open up the screen and position it on top of the charcoal.


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Mix the worm castings (optional) and potting soil and drop the dirt. Follow the packaging instructions for the ratio of castings to soil, but a rule of thumb is about 10 parts soil to 1 part worm droppings.
 
Use your paper funnel to drop the soil mixture in to the bottle. It will pile up in the center and you can use your spoon-on-a-stick tool to spread the soil evenly.
 
You want about 2 to 3 inches soil layer. It will be very loosely packed, but over time the plants’ roots will firm up this layer.


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You are now ready to plant your plants. These are in 2 inch pots because you need to drop the plant through the bottle neck and larger plants will not fit.
 
A 5 gallon bottle can comfortably have 4 to 5 plants. You want to plant on the outside edges of the bottle first because dropping a plant in falls in the center. The last plant can be planted in the center of the bottle.
 
Decide on your plant arrangement and then using your spoon-on-a-stick tool, dig a shallow hole where you want the plant to go.


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Drop your plant in to the bottle. Be gentle with it fitting it through the bottle neck. The root ball in a 2 inch pot can be coaxed to slip through the neck. It will fall to the center. Use your spoon-on-a-stick tool to push the plant into the shallow hole you dug and manipulate the plant in to an upright stance. Gently push dirt over the roots to cover them.
 
Repeat the process for the next plant – dig a hole, drop it in, maneuver in to place and cover the roots.
 
If there is room, the last plant will be planted in the center of the bottle.


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With all the plants in place, you are ready to water the terrarium. Depending on the size of the bottle, ½ to 1 cup of water will suffice. Carefully tilt the bottle and pour the water so that it flows down the side of the bottle. That will add the water without hurting the plants.  You can aim the water flow to rinse the side of the bottle where some dirt may have stuck to. Alternately you can wrap your spoon-on-a-stick tool with a damp paper towel to wipe down the sides.
 
The cork/stopper is optional and will change how often you need to water. With no cork, the water evaporates out of the bottle and you will require to water about once a month.  If you put a stopper in then the water is retained and you may not have to water for a year or more.


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Care for your terrarium is simple. A little sun is ok but not too much. It gets very hot and humid in the bottle, which some plants may like and others not.
 
Turn the bottle to change the facing towards the light. This helps the plants to not lean too much in any direction.
 
Watering is infrequent and you can control the humidity level by putting the stopper in or not. Ideally you should see condensation in the morning and evening. If there is none, you need to water. If there is condensation throughout the day, then there is probably a bit too much water. It is easy to reduce the water in the reservoir by removing the cork. This will over the course of a couple of weeks drop the water level. When it is less humid you can replace the cork.


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Your plants will start to grow and over time, some of the leaves may die off and decay. There may be algae. There may be mold. You need a cleanup crew. Once the terrarium is established you can add spring tails Folsomia candida to the bottle. These small (1 to 2 mm) moisture loving insects are harmless to people and feed on the decaying roots and fungi and rarely damage plants.  They will help control mold issues in the bottle.

Folsomia candida


Plant Choices for Your Terrarium:
1. Emerald Ripple Pepper Peperomia caperata grows to 8 inches tall. This is a tropical plant with highly decorative heart-shaped leaves with a deeply furrowed nature and cream-colored, spiked inflorescence
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2. Friendship Plant Pilea involucrata grows 6 to 18 inches tall and blooms in red. Friendship plant prefers moist soil and full shade to partial sun.
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3. Spider Plant Chlorophytum comosum is one of the easiest houseplants to grow. Spider plants have long, narrow leaves growing in rosettes and they like moist conditions.
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4. African Violet Streptocarpus ionanthus prefers moist, well-drained soil and full shade to partial sun and high humidity.
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5. Jewel plant/Nerve plant Fittonia albivenis. This tropical plant is commonly grown as a houseplant where it thrives on bright to medium light, average to cool room temperature, and medium humidity.
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6. Prayer plant Maranta leuconeura. An evergreen tropical plant that requires humidity. Place in bright indirect light.
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7. Pearlwort/Scotch Moss Sagina subulata can spread 9 to 12 inches. This plant does best in full sun to part shade.
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8. Aluminum plant Pilea cadierei. A tropical plant that can be grown indoors in a warm, humid environment in bright indirect light, avoiding full sun.
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9. Bird’s Nest Fern Asplenium nidus. Bird's Nest Fern is a tropical, slow growing, evergreen, perennial, epiphyte native to Hawaii and the Pacific Basin. It inhabits rain forests and is found in soils or on branches of trees
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10. Baby’s Tears/Polka Dot Plant Hypoestes phyllostachya. The polka dot plant can grow up to 24 inches tall. It likes moist to wet conditions.
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Photos from the NC Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/find_a_plant/

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Creating a Beautiful Indoor Garden

10/12/2022

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By Joanne K, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer, Pitt County Arboretum
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Sansevieria trifasci
As the temperatures drop, we spend more time indoors missing the natural beauty of the great outdoors. One way to remedy that is to bring plants into our homes.

Indoor plants have many benefits. They connect us with nature. They add color and beauty to indoor spaces, creating a warm, inviting, and calming environment.

However, that's not the only reason to grow plants inside. According to NASA, houseplants have been shown to improve indoor air quality by reducing pollution from formaldehyde, benzene, and other harmful chemicals.

Other research has shown less dust and mold in rooms with plants since leaves and other plant parts are natural filters.

By following a few guidelines, you can enjoy the benefits of plants while successfully growing them indoors


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Anthurium andraeanum

Start by choosing healthy houseplants. Before buying, check for well-formed leaves and buds and overall appearance. Avoid plants with brown, yellow, or droopy leaves and stems. Make sure there are no visible insects on the plants.

Think about what kind of light and space you have for indoor plants. Read the plant tags for light requirements and mature plant size to help you select the right plant for your space.

Don't overwater! More houseplants are killed by overwatering than underwatering. A simple test is to put your finger in the top inch or two of the soil to determine if it is dry.

Plants such as succulents and cacti rarely need water. If they appear wrinkled, that's the time to water. Other houseplants' water needs are determined by the temperature in your home, the type of plant, and the type of pot. Plastic pots hold moisture longer than porous terra cotta pots.

Light intensity changes seasonally with the more intense summer sun encouraging peak plant growth. Plants receive less light during the rest of the year, and this reduces or stops plant growth. At these times, plants need less water and fertilizer.

When fertilizing, use a balanced 10-10-10 houseplant fertilizer, carefully following package directions. Fertilizing encourages healthy growth and blooms.

Be on the lookout for pests such as mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites that can invade your plants. Check periodically for insects, holes in leaves, and sticky excretions on the leaves from the pests.

Isolate any plant with these conditions. If treating with insecticide, do it outdoors and not in enclosed spaces.

Indoor humidity levels are usually too low for most houseplants. There are several ways to increase humidity: placing a humidifier near the plants; closely grouping plants to create a moist microclimate; or filling a saucer with water just below a layer of pebbles placing the plant container so it doesn't touch the water.
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Codiaeum variegatum
Some plants native to dry climates such as cacti, succulents, and bromeliads prefer low humidity since their thick, fleshy, waxy, or hairy leaves hold water.

To keep your plants looking good, use pruning shears to remove spent flowers and diseased or dead foliage and stems. If needed, shape the plant with pruning shears.

As your plants grow, check for roots coming out of the drainage hole or above the soil line. These are signs it is time to repot. However, just go up one pot size each time.

Even if you don't have a green thumb, following these guidelines will help you to create a beautiful indoor garden.
Photos courtesy of  NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
Anthurium— Anthurium— KENPEI CC-BY-SA 3.0
Croton— Codiaeum variegated var. pictum— Kathleen Moore CC BY 2.0
Snake Plant— Dracaena trifasciata— Form Mokkie CC-BY-Sa 3.0


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When to bring caladiums indoors

9/28/2022

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By Susann C., Extension Master Gardener Volunteer, Pitt County Arboretum
It started with a text from my gardening mentor, an Extension Master Gardener Volunteer (EMGV). ‘The temperature’s going to drop to 45 tonight. Do you think we should bring in the caladiums,’ she asked.

My gut response was to say, ‘Of course not, because we’re not getting frost.’ I have dozens of caladiums and would like to enjoy them as long as possible. My answer had nothing to do with any special knowledge I had, and everything to do with my wanting to keep my garden filled with its spectacular caladiums.


When I googled when to cut down the foliage and bring the tubers inside, my search yielded multiple gardening sites describing the need to dig up the tubers at the end of the
growing season/in the Fall, and store them inside for the winter. Several sites recommended digging up caladiums when the leaves turn yellow and ‘tired looking,’ with most of the foliage falling over. These sites recommended leaving a little foliage on the plants so that it is easier to find and pull up the tubers.

Some sites recommended bringing the plants inside when the temperature dropped to 45 degrees. After willfully dismissing the recommendation to bring the plants inside at 45 degrees, my training as a master gardener took over and I went online to search for reliable, evidence-based research on how to proceed.

I went to the place I should have gone to at the start: The North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. The Toolbox is a gardener’s best friend and provides information that is evidence-based. I typed “Caladium” into the search box. The site offers lots of information about caladiums. What was most helpful for me was the subheading labeled Bulb Storage: “Dig up tubers in the fall after first frost, set in wood shavings or peat, and store in a dry location 45 degrees F. or warmer.”

Now that I know I likely have until early November to enjoy my caladiums, I can breathe a sigh of relief.  Over the next four weeks, I will continue to enjoy seeing the colorful foliage while thinking about what comes next. Will I bring the plants inside for display over the winter, or cut down most of the foliage, dig up the tubers, and store them in a dry location? I am thankful that I have about a month to make this decision, all the while enjoying the foliage.
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Create a Colorful, Drought-Tolerant, Low-Maintenance Planter Using Succulents

9/20/2022

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By Joanne K, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer, Pitt County Arboretum
Keeping planters looking good when Eastern North Carolina is suffering an ongoing drought with little rain in sight is a real challenge. One way to meet that challenge is to create planters filled with succulents, which are naturally drought tolerant. Succulents come in a wide range of colors, textures, shapes, and sizes, offering endless design possibilities.

 'Succulent' describes any plant with a swollen leaf, stem, or root that holds water. In general, most succulents come from arid regions requiring them to store water in their fleshy leaves, stems, and roots to survive dry periods.

While succulents are easy to grow and are relatively low in maintenance, they do come from different plant families, so it's important to read the plant tag for each plant’s specific requirements.

Succulents grow best in indirect light as the leaves burn easily. In particular, succulents should be sheltered from the hot afternoon sun. With too little sun they become leggy, but too much sun can cause scorched leaves.

Since overwatering can be a problem, succulents should only be watered when the soil is dry to the touch and the plant’s leaves appear wrinkly. If the soil is pulling away from the sides of the pot, you have waited too long to water.

Good drainage in the planter is essential, and it’s important to select a planter in which the water drains freely. Standing water in the pot can cause your succulents to rot.

Succulents identified as Sedum and Sempervivum can tolerate winter cold in containers, but others, such as Echeverias, Aeoniums, Pachyphytums, and Graptopetalums, may need to be brought indoors for the winter. The plant label should provide information on the cold tolerance of a particular succulent.

If the plant label is incomplete, do some online research to determine whether your succulents need to move indoors for the winter. Remember that the Eastern North Carolina growing zone is zone 8.

You can purchase potting soil developed for cacti and succulents, or you can create a quick-draining blend by mixing 50 percent sand or perlite with 50 percent potting soil.

When first planting the succulents, give them a thorough watering, allowing them to become dry to the touch before watering again. Since succulents grow slowly, only fertilize once a month during the summer growing season by using a regular house plant fertilizer at half strength. No fertilizer is needed in the winter when the plants are dormant.  

While diseases are rare in succulents, be alert for mealybugs, aphids, and scale insects, which can be removed with a swab of rubbing alcohol or a spray of Safer Soap.

 Let your imagination take over as you enjoy creating color low-maintenance summer planters with the unusual foliage and beautiful colors of succulents.

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Friend or Foe? Snake Management in Gardens

7/22/2021

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While loveable pets for some, and unwanted company for others, snakes will inevitably find their way into most garden spaces. Before you write these scaly travelers off as your worst enemy, consider some of the benefits that they bring to your backyard. 

Snakes feed on many creatures that could damage or feed on garden plants. They help keep rat, mice, vole, and rabbit populations in check. Small mammals and rodents are the primary food sources for many snake species. Snakes may be more active in the spring or fall as they search for or come out of hibernation patterns. 

There are several venomous snakes found in North Carolina, including the copperhead, cottonmouth (water moccasin), three rattlesnake species, and eastern coral snakes. When observing a snake on your property, keep a healthy distance unless the snake is positively identified as non-venomous. This can be difficult to identify. Rattlesnakes can be identified by a pit between and slightly below the eye and nostril, long movable fangs, a vertically elliptical pupil, and a triangular head. Coral snakes have a distinct pattern of red and black rings separated by a yellow ring. Nonvenomous snakes, such as the black rat snake (also known as chicken snake or simply black snake), have two rows of scales on their tails instead of the single row that venomous snakes have. 

While some snake species are more common than others, there are precautions you can take to discourage snakes in general; Reducing cover and food supply by mowing closely around homes, gardens, and storage buildings, store firewood and lumber away from homes and elevated off the ground, reduce mulch layers around shrubs to discourage small animals, close cracks and crevices in buildings and around piles and utility connections. 
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It is not recommended to handle or kill any type of snake, particularly in situations where the snake cannot be identified. In general, most snakes will move on by themselves without the need to intervene. Non Venomous species are often valued for their ability to keep areas clean of small mammals and offer little risk to other inhabitants. 


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Horticulture Therapy

7/15/2021

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Gardening and nature have long been recognized for their potential influence on solace and fulfillment in life. Horticulture therapy specifically taps into this influence by focusing on the benefits horticulture activity could have on human health and general well-being. This practice can be implemented in professional mental health settings, such as by a trained therapist in the clinical practice of horticultural therapy, or in a wider variety of settings, such as in community or residential environments. The American Horticultural Therapy Association supports and advances the horticultural therapy profession. 

Therapeutic horticulture programming covers many possible activities. More traditional activities, like preparing beds, sowing seeds, planting, maintenance, and harvesting can be utilized by various age and skill levels. These activities can also be modified to better fit groups ranging from small children to the elderly. Gardening provides connections to nature and the cycle of life. 

Plants often give prompt feedback on their quality of life. If their needs are overlooked or if care is overbearing, the plant will give signs. Plant care and maintenance activities can be vehicles for personal growth by developing one’s sense of purpose, self-esteem, and respect for other forms of life. Horticulture therapy programs are growing popular in retirement communities, healthcare and rehabilitation facilities, schools, and correctional facilities. 

​More information on existing programs can be found by joining the listserv of Horticulture Therapy professionals in North Carolina at Therapuetic-Hort@lists.ncsu.edu. For therapeutic horticulture news, please visit the NC State Extension Therapeutic Horticulture Portal.

Written By: Katie Winslow - Extension Intern 

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