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Welcome to the Blog!

Extend the Life of Your Summer Annuals

9/10/2023

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By Joanne K., Pitt County EMGV
Coleus displays  in many home and public container gardens around the area have been spectacular this year. Perhaps you have a favorite coleus or another summer annual that you don't want to lose when the frost comes.
Picture
Coleus Green (Coleus scutellarioides) in late summer.
Photo by Joanne K.
As summer winds down, many annuals have luxuriant growth from which cuttings can be taken to propagate over the winter to enjoy in your garden next spring. Propagating cuttings is a fun way to extend your gardening season.

Following are two easy propagation methods using stem cuttings.

Picture
Picture
i) Angel Wing Begonia (Begonia coccinea) leaf about
   
to be cut. 
ii) Angel Wing Begonia leaf cut in half horizontally.

Photos by Dick W.
1. Use a pot with good drainage and fill it with a commercial seed starting mix or perlite.

Select a healthy stem or a large leaf with a stem.

Cut a 4"-6" long stem with several leaves between nodes. When cutting a single large leaf such as an angel wing begonia, cut it in half horizontally to encourage root development.

Remove flowers and any leaves from the bottom half of the stem, moisten it, and then dip it in rooting hormone (available at garden centers). The stem of the single leaf should also be dipped in the rooting hormone.

Make a hole in the moist commercial seed starting mix or perlite and place the stem or the large leaf in it. The stem should have one node below the soil line for root growth.

Several cuttings can be placed in a single container. It's a good idea to take more than one cutting to ensure successful rooting.

Cover the container with a bottomless milk jug or a clear plastic bag to maintain high humidity. Be careful to keep the leaves clear of the covering to prevent mold from developing.

Keep away from direct sunlight and water lightly if needed to keep the mixture moist but not soggy.


2. Rooting in water (begonia, coleus, geranium, and impatiens)

Take a 4"-6" stem cutting and place it in a jar of water, removing any leaves below the water line.

Change the water every three days to give new oxygen to the plant. Keep the container out of direct sunlight.


What to do once the cutting forms roots
How will you know it's time?
Most cuttings root in 4 to 6 weeks. A gentle tug on the stem cutting will have some resistance.

You may also see new growth at the base of the leaf cutting. In water, the roots are visible.

You are ready to pot it up in a planter with regular potting soil. Place each cutting in a separate planter and water. Don't water again until the top inch of soil is dry.

Picture
Beefsteak Begonia (Begonia erythrophylla) leaf cutting showing new leaf at base.
Photo by Joanne K.

Place the planter in a properly lit place for the type of plant you have. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer when needed according to package directions.
Picture
Six Beefsteak Begonia (Begonia erythrophylla) leaf cuttings rooting in one container.
Photo by Joanne K.

The following annuals respond well to home propagation, but feel free to experiment with propagating your other container and bedding plants. You may be surprised how easy it is to do.

Floss flower, Ageratum; Wax begonia, Begonia ? semperflorens-cultorum; Dragon wing begonia, Begonia; Angel wing begonia, Begonia coccinea; Coleus, Coleus scutellarioides; Geranium, Pelargonium; Polka dot plant, Hypoestes; Impatiens, Impatiens walleriana; Persian shield, Strobilanthes dyerianus; Petunia, Petunia; Sweet Potato Vine, Ipomoea batatas; Verbena, Verbena; Vinca, Catharanthus roseus.



Picture
Coleus (Coleus scutellarioides) stem cutting rooted in water.
Photo by Joanne K.

For an excellent series of plant propagation photos and instructions go to the following Missouri Botanical Garden site:

https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/visual-guides/propagating-plants-by-cuttings#:~:text=Some plants will root in,rot if kept too wet.

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Summer Planters That Beat the Heat

8/15/2023

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By Joanne K., Pitt County EMGV
Eastern NC is definitely in the dog days of summer now, with the heat index soaring above 100 and rain coming sporadically. Containers plants are particularly vulnerable to this twin whammy of hot, dry conditions, as the containers tend to dry out quickly.

Pitt County Master Gardeners were asked to share photos of some of their favorite container gardens that have held up well this summer despite unfavorable growing weather. Below are their containers, along with the plants that have beat the heat!

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Photo 1: by Cindy C., Pitt County EMGV
Coleus scutellarioides, Coleus;
Ipomoea batatas Sweet Potato Vine;
Lantana camara, Common Lantana;
Crossandra infundibuliformis, Firecracker Flower

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Photo 2: Dell E., Pitt County EMGV
Caladium Caladiums;
Coleus scutellarioides, Coleus



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Photo 3: Judy P., Pitt County EMGV
Suntory Catharanthus Vinca

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Photo 4: Joanne K., Pitt County EMGV
Euphorbia x martini 'Ascot Rainbow' Spurge;
Surdiva® Scaevola Hybrid White Improved


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Photo 5: Bob C., Pitt County EMGV
Colocasia Elephant Ears;
Caladiums Caladiums;
Canna  Cannas


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Photo 6: Teresa S., Pitt County EMGV
Left: Sedum reflexum 'Blue Spruce'
Middle/Bottom (lighter green): Sedum rupestre 'Angelina'
Right (fleshier): Sedum rubrotinctum 'Pork & Beans'


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Photo 7: Blythe T., Pitt County EMGV
Catharanthus Vinca;
Lysimachia aurea Creeping Jenny

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Plan and Plant Now For Your Fall Vegetable Harvest

8/1/2023

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By Joanne K., Pitt County EMGV
Although it's the middle of summer, now is the time to start planning and planting your fall vegetable garden. The eastern NC climate allows for three-season gardening, and the cooler fall temperatures are ideal for such crops as lettuces, onions, broccoli, collards, and cabbage.

Fall planting can be done between mid-August to mid-September.

Start by getting a soil test, which is free between April 1 and the end of November. Soil test boxes and forms are available at the Pitt County Agricultural Center lobby and the NC Cooperative Extension office at 403 Government Circle, Greenville, NC 27834. Soil samples are sent to the NC Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services lab in Raleigh, and the turnaround time is about two weeks.

As the summer crops start to decline, pull out the spent vegetation and weeds to make room for fall crops. Don't turn them under in the garden, however, as the summer build-up of insects and diseases can still linger in the soil in the warm fall temperatures, threatening your new plantings.
Till the cleared soil about 6" to 8" deep, incorporating whatever amount of lime and/or fertilizer is recommended by your soil test report. If you didn't get a test, incorporating 1 to 2 lbs. of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 sq. ft. should work.

Vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and collards can be direct-seeded now in pots for transplanting in August. If you can't find the seeds that you want, make a note to buy them next spring along with those for your summer garden.

Plant seeds at a depth two to three times the width of the seed.

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Seedlings ready for transplanting
Picture
Brassica oleracea Acephala (Curly Leaf Kale). It's a cool- season biennial capable of growing two to three feet tall with thick, usually crinkled (savoy), broadly linear 18-inch long leaves borne up the stalk at a 45-degree angle.
If you miss the seed-planting window, transplants for these and other fall crops are available from local garden centers. Be careful to select healthy transplants that can withstand the summer insect buildup. Planting them on an overcast day or in early evening will help prevent the transplants from wilting.

After planting your seeds and transplants, water them well and be sure to keep them watered as seeds need moisture to germinate and transplants need it to form good roots. At least 1 inch of water per week is recommended.


Mulching around your plants will help to retain moisture, reduce weeds, maintain soil temperature, and prevent erosion. About 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as bark chips, compost, dried grass clippings, or pine needles, are recommended.

Be sure to check your new plantings frequently for insect and disease damage.

You may need to replant your lettuce and spinach if they fail to germinate because the soil temperature is too warm. I have planted lettuce as late as early November and had some to harvest at the end of January when the winter was mild.

To extend the growing season, you can cover the plants with plastic milk jugs with cut-off bottoms, flower pots, floating row covers supported by stakes, cold frames, etc., when frost threatens.

Between November 1 and 8 is the average first frost date in eastern North Carolina, but there may be plenty of mild days after that so remove the coverings when the temperatures rise.

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Beta vulgaris (Swiss Chard) These cultivars do best in full sun to partial shade, as well as moist, rich, well-drained soil. The plants require a pH level of 6.0 to 8.0. They grow fastest in the cool temperatures of spring and fall, although they continue to produce leaves through summer.
NC Cooperative Extension offers an "Eastern North Carolina Planting Calendar for Annual Vegetables, Fruits, and Herbs", which includes information on planting dates, days to harvest, and whether to plant seeds or transplants. You can request a copy from Pitt County Extension Master Gardeners at 252-902-1705 or access the guide online. For more information on vegetable gardening, go to the Extension Gardener handbook.

Plant now and enjoy your own fresh vegetables through the fall and early winter!

Photos:
Transplants - Lucy B., CC BY 2.0
Curly leaf kale - Lucy B., CC BY 2.0
Swiss chard - Kathleen M., CC BY 2.0
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When to Prune Your Hydrangeas

7/3/2023

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By Joanne K., Pitt County EMGV
Gorgeous hydrangea blooms in hues of pink, purple, blue, white, and green are the current stars of eastern NC gardens. These shrubs have really rebounded this year with robust blooms after the disappointing hydrangea displays in 2022 due to an exceptionally dry year.


But now as the blooms start to fade, gardeners are faced with the question of when to prune their plants.

Pruning is needed to remove old blooms, control size and shape, remove diseased/damaged stems and leaves, or rejuvenate an overgrown plant.

The rule of thumb for hydrangeas is if they bloom on old wood, cut back immediately after blooming, removing only about 1/3 of the plant. If they bloom on new wood, prune after flowering or in winter.

The challenge is to determine what kind of hydrangea you have.

Picture
Merritt's Supreme H. macrophylla
Commonly seen in local gardens are two types of hydrangeas: H. macrophylla -  Mophead or Bigleaf Hydran-gea, and H. macrophylla normalis - Lacecap Hydrangea.

Mopheads sport big round blooms in shades of pink, blue, and purple. Lacecaps, on the other hand, have a more delicate-looking flat bloom with a small inner ring of flowers surrounded by a ring of larger flowers.

Both are woody deciduous shrubs that bloom during the late spring and early summer on the previous year's growth ('old wood'). Their buds form in late summer to early fall, so prune them immediately after flowering. Pruning later risks losing next year's flowers.

Removing the dead flowers encourages leaf growth. Also, as your shrub ages, the recommendation is to remove 1/3 of the oldest stems by cutting them to the ground to let in more light and air.

Severely overgrown hydrangeas can be rejuvenated by hard renewal pruning, which cuts all of the branches to the ground. While you will lose next year's flowers, the following year's display should be good.

Also seen in local gardens is the southern native, Oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia), with its huge oak-like leaves and white pyramidal flower heads. It also blooms on old wood. Prune after blooming if desired, but it isn't necessary. This hydrangea looks best when allowed to maintain its natural shape. Pruning may only be needed to cut out diseased or damaged stems or to allow more air circulation.
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Oakleaf hydrangea H. quercifolia
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Limelight H. paniculata
A current favorite hybrid hydrangea series, 'Limelight' and 'Little Lime' (H. paniculata), blooms on new growth with conical-shaped white flowers gradually turning green, then rose, and finally fading to beige. They can be pruned immediately after flowering, or you can enjoy the beautiful dry flower heads over winter, pruning them in late winter just as leaves start to appear and before the flower buds form.

"Everblooming" hydrangeas, such as Summer Crush
® Bigleaf Hydrangea and BloomStruck ® Bigleaf Hydrangea, flower on both old and new growth, and can be pruned at any time without losing flowers.

Other hydrangeas include the smooth (H. arborescens) and the climbing (H. anomala) varieties.


The smooth hydrangea, the most common native hydrangea in North Carolina, blooms on new growth. Prune it back to about 12 inches above the ground in late winter before spring growth for strong stem growth. Its cultivars include 'Annabelle,' 'Invincibelle Ruby,' and 'Invincibelle Spirit.'

The climbing hydrangea, with its fragrant white flowers, grows vigorously and should be pruned after blooming when the new growth has lengthened. It may only need pruning for shaping or to remove dead or diseased wood.

Hydrangea blooms are perfect for dry, indoor winter arrangements. An easy way to dry the blooms is to place the mature flowers with all of the leaves stripped from the stem in a container with a couple of inches of water. Keep the container out of direct sunlight.

In a couple of weeks, the process will be complete. The blooms won't absorb the water, and the dried color will be more vibrant than ones allowed to dry on the stem. Google "how to dry hydrangeas" for more information.

With careful plant selection, your garden can feature a beautiful continuous hydrangea display from late spring into the fall and winter!

Photos
'Merritt's Supreme Hydrangea,' H. macrophylla, Pink Bigleaf Hydrangea,
in the Wet Site Garden at the Pitt County Arboretum. Photo by Joanne K.

Oakleaf Hydrangea, H. quercifolia,
in row 2 of the Walking Trail at the Pitt County Arboretum. Photo by Joanne K.

'Limelight Hydrangea', H. paniculata,
in the Perennial Garden at the Pitt County Arboretum. Photo by Cindy C.

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Container Gardening Tips from Pitt County Extension Master Gardeners

6/15/2023

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Story by Joanne K., Pitt County Arboretum Extension Master Gardener Volunteer
What to do when you want to add more color and excitement to your garden, but there's just no space to squeeze in one more plant?
That's when the savvy gardener turns to container gardening to create new gardens every season and every year without the heavy lifting required to start a new planting bed.

At the Pitt County Arboretum, the Master Garden container team changes out the pots each season showcasing the variety of plants suitable for planters. Annuals, perennials, shrubs, trees, grasses, succulents, herbs, and vegetables are all fair game for container planting.

The accompanying pictures show three of the Arboretum containers planted for summer for part sun, full sun, and shade.

Master Gardener Teresa S. shares the following tips for successful container gardening.



TIP # 1—CHOOSE THE RIGHT POT
Consider the size, texture, and color of the container to enhance the plants you put inside. Porous pots such as terracotta don't retain water like ceramic or plastic would. Smaller pots dry out faster than larger ones. Is your pot frost resistant? Is it light enough to be moved around? Make sure your container has a drainage hole in the bottom.

TIP # 2—USE A GOOD POTTING SOIL
It is best to use a light potting mix in your containers. Soil directly from your garden is often too heavy and may contain weed seeds and diseases. You can purchase bags of ready-made container mixes. Even bags with fertilizer added need extra throughout the growing season.
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Part sun planter in the perennial garden: Sedum rupestre 'Angelina'; Ajuga reptans, Buglewort; Euphorbia x martini 'Ascot Rainbow, Martin's Spurge'; Liriope mascara 'Variegata', Lily Turf; Alocasia 'Calidora', Elephant Ears; Angelonia hybrid 'Angelface Perfectly Pink', Summer Snapdragon; Calibrachoa hybrid 'Supervells Evening Star', Calibrachoa.

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Full sun planter in front of the Extension building: two planters contain a variety of drought-tolerant sedums and succulents and a grass.
TIP #3—PLANTING DESIGN
It's easy using the THRILLER, FILLER, AND SPILLER method. A tall plant (the thriller) adds height, mounding plants (fillers) add texture and substance, and trailing plants (spillers) cascade down the sides to complete the look.

TIP # 4—NOT JUST ORNAMENTALS

Containers can hold more than flowering plants. Consider planting an herb pot which can be placed close to your kitchen ready for picking when you need them. A variety of them adds an attractive display of color, scent, shape, and flavor.



TIP # 5 PLANT CARE
Select your plants based on their needs. Will the container be in the sun? Are all the plants drought tolerant? What maintenance is required? You might consider adding an irrigation system to keep your plants watered keeping in mind that plants in pots dry out much more quickly than plants in the ground.

TIP #6—EVERGREENS

Use small evergreens as a focal point in your container. Various flowering annuals can compliment them and easily be changed throughout the different seasons. When the evergreen outgrows the pot, it usually can be planted in your regular garden.

TIP #7—VARIETY IN FOLIAGE
Foliage color and texture are important elements in designing your containers. Combinations of nonflowering plants can make interesting arrangements.

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Shade planter under the Green Roof Shelter: Dryopteris erythrosora 'Brilliance', Autumn Fern; Vinca vine Variegated; Gaultheria procumbens, American Wintergreen.

When shopping at your favorite nursery, start planning your next container garden creation with these tips in mind!

Photos: Joanne K.
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Tips for reducing physical stress on your body while gardening

4/25/2023

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Story by Joanne K., Pitt County Arboretum Extension Master Gardener Volunteer
Oh, my aching back! My creaky knees! This tool hurts my hand!
The litany of gardening aches is universal, and with the arrival of spring and planting season, the pain chorus sings loudly.
​No surprise, since after little gardening activity during the winter, our bodies need to ease back into it. To do that, think about ways to simplify both your garden and your gardening practices. 

​It's not only seniors or those with physical challenges who benefit from simplified gardening. 
​
A lot of bending, squatting, kneeling, and hauling is required to maintain a garden. Anyone wanting to garden for a lifetime benefits by looking for less stressful ways to work.
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A kneeling pad with handy handles. Flip it over and it becomes a small bench to sit on. Photo by Joanne K.
The following suggestions are from the University of California, Davis.

Certainly envisioning a simpler garden is one step to take. Instead of planting annual beds, replace them with perennials and shrubs that, once established, will require minimal care.
​
Select shrubs that require little or no pruning. Plant tough perennials that can withstand our summer heat and occasional droughts without missing a beat.
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A cart to carry and move tools around keeps them organized and handy. Photo by Joanne K. 
Mulch your beds with compost and pine straw to reduce the need to water and weed. 
.
Plan the tools that you'll need for that day's gardening and keep them nearby so there is less walking and hauling. Use a two-wheeled wheelbarrow or a wagon to move the equipment.
​
.
A kneeling bench or knee pads can reduce the stress on your knees.
You may choose to plant only container gardens or create raised beds that also lessen the stress on both the knees and the back.
​

Lightly stretch before working to warm those muscles. Break up your work into smaller segments, maybe only an hour or two a day, to keep from overextending your joints.

Also try to avoid repeating the same motion over an extended period. Change your task periodically to lessen the stress on any one particular body part.

Be careful to use proper body movements. Always lift with your knees and bend at the hips to reduce the strain on your back.

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This table bed is accessible to wheelchairs. Photo: USDA, Lance Cheung Flikr Public Domain Mark 1.0
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Big-handle tools and ergonomic handle tools are easier on the wrist for digging. Photo by Joanne K.
Don't try to move everything at one time. Smaller, lighter loads carried close to your body are much easier on the back.

​
​Look for ergonomic tools that will reduce the pressure on your hands and wrists. Replace heavy shovels and rakes with lightweight ones that are easier to use.

Wear garden gloves to protect your hands and wear shoes with backs, not flip-flops or clogs, to protect your feet.

Try to work in the cooler parts of the day. Use sunscreen and wear a hat and long sleeves to protect from sunburn. Stay hydrated.
Don't be afraid to ask for help from younger family members, or perhaps look into getting some paid help for the heavier tasks.

More suggestions for adapting your garden can be found at UC Davis at https://ucanr.edu/sites/cetrinityucdavisedu/files/280231.pdf   
and at 
​
https://cetrinity.ucanr.edu/files/280232.pdf.

Once you start implementing these suggestions into your gardening routine, you'll never look back. And your body will thank you!
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Spring Weeds in Turf Grass

4/5/2023

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Story and photos by Joanne K., Pitt County Arboretum Extension Master Gardener Volunteer
Although our grass does not actively grow in winter and early spring, the weeds certainly do! They seem to pop up everywhere in the lawn, causing headaches for grass lovers.

Weeds are defined as plants growing where you don't want them. Most of the same weed species will return in the same areas every year. Weeds compete with the grass for light, water, nutrients, and space.

This time of year you are likely to see a variety of broadleaf weeds, including Henbit (Lamium amplexicaule), Hairy buttercup (Ranunculus sardous), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale), Purple deadnettle (Lamium purpureum), Wild garlic (Allium ursinum), and Wild violets (Viola papilionacea).

Weeds can reproduce not only through seeds but also through root and stem fragments, underground rhizomes, and tubers. Anyone who has tried to eliminate wild garlic knows how tough that is to do.

Picture
Viola papilionacea (blue violet)
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Lamium purpureum (purple deadnettle)
Weeds love to move into barren dry soil, compacted soil, or perpetually damp areas. The best defense is a dense healthy turf whose shade will prevent weed seeds from germinating and slow water evaporation.

Proper mowing heights, applying fertilizer at the right time, sufficient water, thatch control, and weed and insect control are all critical to maintaining a healthy turf.

Weeds that appear now are best controlled in November or December with a treatment of a preemergent herbicide containing mesotrione, MOA 27 (4 SC) or sulfentrazone + prodiaminel, MOA 14 + 3 (4 SC).

If you missed that window, a number of postemergent herbicides can be used now, including those containing quinclorac, MOA (27 +4); 2,4-D amine, MOA 4 (4 SL); mecoprop, MOA 4; or dicamba MOA 4 (4 SL).

Before selecting a herbicide to use, it's important to identify both the weeds to be controlled and your grass type.


Also, always be sure to carefully read all of the instructions on the herbicide packaging to ensure the safe application of the product.
Picture
Ranunculus sardous (buttercup)
These include calculating the square footage, measuring the herbicide amount accordingly, and correctly calibrating the spreader.

An excellent resource is the turf grass file at NC State University: https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/weeds-in-turf/

The NC State University website describes the various weeds that occur at different times of the year and includes pictures for identification. It describes cultural and chemical controls listing the pre- and post-emergent herbicides that can be used, along with explanations on their usage.

Lawn maintenance calendars can be requested from the Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteers by calling the Info Line at 252-902-1709.

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Vegetables to plant now

2/21/2023

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By Joanne K., Pitt County EMGV
Picture
Seed Packet. Raphanus raphanistrum subsp. sativus Radish
Our warmer than usual winter has gardeners itching to start planting their vegetable gardens. Visions of freshly picked greens, ears of corn, and tomatoes tickle the tastebuds with the promise of wonderful flavors to come.

It’s  time to put in those cool season crops that thrive in the low temperatures and humidity of early spring. Also, there is less pressure now from potential pests that may attack your crops.

In February and March, the following crops can be put into the ground from seeds and transplants.

From Seed—arugula, beets, carrots, Chinese cabbage, cilantro, dill, fennel, kale, lettuce (head and leaf), mustard, onions, parsley, peas (bush, field, and vining), radishes, spinach, sweet corn, Swiss chard, turnips.

 From Transplants—broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, collards, kale, lettuce (head and leaf), onions (green), parsley, Swiss chard.

Although you may see tomato and pepper plants for sale now, it's very risky to plant them so early because a late cold spell could kill your plants or, at minimum, stunt their growth. Tomato and pepper plants require warm weather to thrive.

Picture
Petroselinum crispum Flat Leaf Italian Parsley
But if you can't resist the allure of an early harvest and decide you must transplant your tomatoes now, be prepared to cover them if a frost warning is issued.

It’s best to buy and plant your tomato and pepper transplants after March 30, Eastern NC's last average frost date. If you want to grow your own pepper and tomato transplants, start the seeds 6 to 8 weeks before their recommended transplant date, which is April 15 for both plants.

While all of these vegetables and herbs can be planted directly in the ground, you may prefer to grow them in a container garden if you have limited space or prefer the ease of maintaining a container garden. 

When planting in pots, be sure to use potting soil rather than garden soil, which will compact and drain poorly.

Potting soil also reduces the chances of weeds and soil-borne diseases.

Most potting soils incorporate fertilizers, which will get your plants or seeds off to a great start.

Picture
Brassica oleracea (Acephala Group) Kale
For transplants, read the labels for planting information. For seeds, read the back of the seed packet for planting instructions, including when to sow, planting depth, seed and row spacing, days until plants emerge, and thinning recommendations.

If it doesn't rain, water seeds and transplants until established and then water as needed. While most vegetables need full sun, many greens can grow in high shade.

Vegetables planted from seed should be thinned when plants have one or two pairs of true leaves. Thinning allows the remaining plants to grow bigger.

For more information on planting vegetables and on the number of days to harvest, distance between plants, and additional planting dates for them, go to:

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/eastern-north-carolina-planting-calendar-for-annual-vegetables-fruits-and-herbs

Planting your own greens and veggies guarantees you'll enjoy the freshest produce this spring and summer, and you may even lower your grocery bill a bit!

Photos: J. Kollar
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When to Prune Your Woody Shrubs

2/10/2023

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By Joanne K., Pitt County Arboretum Extension Master Gardener Volunteer
With the approach of spring, gardeners are eager to head outside to get a head start on the multitude of spring chores awaiting them. One of those may include pruning woody shrubs.

Although pruning is not necessary every spring, it's the time of year when bare limbs allow gardeners to see the shape of the plant to determine if winter cold, insects, or disease has caused damage, if the natural growth of the plant needs to be managed, or the ornamental appeal of the shrub could be enhanced. If any of these are true, then it is time to prune.

Picture
Abelia x grandiflora 'Kaleidoscope
But a word of caution: be careful to prune at the right time. Otherwise, you will lose or reduce that year's blossoms.
Picture
 Chaenomeles Flowering Quince
Shrubs flowering before May should be pruned as soon as possible after blooming. These shrubs include forsythia (Forsythia spp.), hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens, Hydrangea paniculata), mock orange (Pittosporum tobira), flowering quince (Chaenomeles spp.), spirea (Spiraea spp.), and viburnum (Viburnum spp.). Pruning in late summer, fall, winter, or early spring removes the flower buds formed last summer.

Summer- and fall-flowering shrubs should be pruned before new growth begins in the spring as the buds form on that new wood. These include abelia (Abelia spp.), beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macropylla), nandina (Nandina domestica), and Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus). All of these bloom on new growth in the current season.

Evergreen shrubs usually only need minimal pruning in early spring. These include boxwood (Buxus simpervirens), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), camellia (Camellia spp.), Japanese hollies (Ilex crenata cultivars), and azaleas (Rhododendron spp.).

Sometimes, overgrown shrubs need more than a few selected cuts. In this case, renewal pruning, which removes the oldest branches of a shrub by cutting them to the ground, leaving younger branches, is required. Although this reduces flowering in the next season, the plant will be

Picture
Lagerstroemia indica Crape Myrtle
healthier in the long run. Shrubs responding well to such pruning include azaleas (Rhododendron spp.), butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii), forsythia (Forsythia spp.), hollies (Ilex spp.), mock orange (Pittosporum tobira), spirea (Spirea spp.), and weigela (Weigela florida).

There is no need to treat pruning cuts with sealers, as doing so may slow healing. Avoid pruning after July 4 because the new growth may not mature before cold weather sets in and this could damage the plant. The exception is dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing limbs, which can be removed at any time.

Pruning shrubs is both an art and a science. Your shrubs will thank you when you do it right by following the above practices at the right time.

All photos: J. Kollar
1. Abelia x grandiflora 'Kaleidoscope 
2.  Chaenomeles Flowering Quince
3. Lagerstroemia indica Crape Myrtle

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Create Indoor Blooms With Winter-Flowering Trees and Shrubs

1/4/2023

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by Joanne K., Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer
During these dreary winter days, gardeners yearn for some sign of color to bring indoors to promise that spring is on its way. However, the garden has little to offer in the way of colorful cut flowers for indoor bouquets in January and February. But there is a way to bring color inside by forcing the stems of winter – and spring-flowering trees and shrubs to bloom.
Forcing is simply a method to get flowers to bloom out of season as is done with bulbs for seasonal displays.

This same procedure can also be used to get branches of woody plants to flower ahead of their normal bloom time.

Flower buds of winter- and spring-flowering trees and shrubs were formed last summer and fall. After a period of dormancy, these buds will start to swell as temperatures moderate.

By cutting the branches and bringing them indoors, warmer house temperatures will speed up the process of breaking dormancy.

Picture
Red Quince, Chaenomeles japonica
For the best results, look for branches with many enlarged buds that are starting to show some color. The closer the buds are to actual bloom time, the more successful the flowering will be.
Picture
Paperbush, Edgeworthia chrysantha
For a clean cut, use a pair of sharp pruners to cut the branch at an angle.

Cut a slit at the end of each stem to increase the branch's water uptake.

Immediately place the cut branches in a bucket of warm water. Once inside, make a new cut at the base of the branch.

For larger branches, you may want to mash the stem base with a hammer to increase the water uptake.

Successful forcing requires both warm indoor temperatures and a good uptake of water into the stems.

Before placing the stems in a vase with warm water, remove any buds, twigs, or leaves that will be under water.

For best results, place the vase in a cool area with bright light but out of direct sunlight to prolong flowering.

Change the water every two or three days to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi that can obstruct water flow into the stems shortening bloom time.

Bloom time varies by species and how close the buds are to their outdoor flowering time. Forsythia may bloom in less than a week indoors, while magnolias make require several weeks.

In eastern North Carolina, flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa and cultivars), forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), paperbush (Edgeworthia), and bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea prunifolia) are good choices to bring in now as their buds are swelling and flower color is beginning to appear.


Star magnolia (Magnolia stellata), saucer magnolia (Magnolia x soulangeana), redbud (Cercis canadenses), flowering cherries (Prunus species and cultivars), and flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) buds will be ready a bit later.
Picture
Winter Jasmine, Jasmine nudiflorum, with White Quince, Chaenomeles speciosa
If your cuttings have not opened after about four weeks, they were cut too early. Try again with new cuttings.

Through trial and error, you'll discover the flowering trees and shrubs that work best for you and when is the best time to bring them indoors.

While waiting for the beginning of the spring planting season, bringing some woody branches inside to flower is a fun way to enjoy some winter gardening.

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