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Joanne K., Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer It's not rain drops falling on our heads these days but acorns! Thanks to an abundant crop this year, acorns are everywhere oak trees are growing — in yards and along sidewalks, streets, roof tops, and nature trails. These fruits of the oak tree are a vital food source for a variety of birds, mammals, wild turkeys, white-tailed deer, and black bears. After the tannins are boiled out, humans can eat them. Native Americans used acorns for medicinal purposes. Acorns are one of the ways to identify oak trees, which can be divided into two groups: white and red. White oaks have rounded lobes with no bristles while red oaks have pointed lobes with a fine bristle at the tip. Acorns are comprised of the nut and the cap (also called the cup). To identify an acorn, look at the cap scale pattern and the nut shape and size. Knowing these characteristics can help in identifying an oak tree just from the acorn. The sweet-tasting white oak acorns mature in one year. Their caps are shallow with bumpy or warty scales covering less than 1/3 of the nut. The caps are smooth inside. Red oak acorns have a bitter taste and need two years to mature. Their caps are deeper covering 1/3 to more than 1/2 of the nut. The overlapping scales are flat and tight to the nut. The inside of the cap is fuzzy.
Darlington Oak, Quercus hemisphaerica - This native evergreen tree in the red oak group has elliptical leaves that are dark green, leathery, and glossy. Its small brown acorns measure about 1/2" long and wide. The light brown shallow cap covers about 1/4 to 1/3 of the nut.
Live Oak, Quercus virginiana - This long-lived native evergreen in the white oak group has leathery green leaves that are glossy on the upper surface and pale underneath. Its egg-shaped acorns are less than 1" long and wide with a pointed bottom. They're dark brown to black when ripe. The caps are bowl-shaped with tiny sharp-pointed scales covering about 1/3 of the nut.
Nuttal Oak, Quercus texana - This deciduous oak is in the red oak group. Its 4-8" long leaves are deeply lobed some of which have bristles on the tips. The brown acorns are 1-3" in length and less than 1" in width. Their shallow, thin scaly brown caps cover 1/4 to 1/3 of the nut.
Pin Oak, Quercus palustris - Pin oak is one of the fastest-growing of the red oaks. Its deciduous leaves are dark green on both sides with sharply pointed bristle-tipped lobes and deep U-shaped sinuses. The young acorn is green maturing to tan. The round nut measures less than 1" long and wide. It can grow singly or in groups of 2-3 nuts. The thin, smooth saucer-shaped cap covers 1/4 to 1/3 of the nut.
Shumard Oak, Quercus shumardi - This deciduous native tree is in the red oak group. The leaves are a shiny dark green on top and pale green with tufts below turning red in the fall. The leaves with pairs of pointed lobes tipped with bristles can be as long as 7 inches. Its brown ovoid-shaped acorns are 1-3" long and wide. The shallow, scaly cap is bowl-shaped covering about 1/3 of the acorn.
Southern Red Oak, Quercus falcata - As its name indicates this native, deciduous oak is in the red oak group. It's found in poor soils in eastern NC and tolerates drought and occasional flooding. It has two types of leaves: one with 3-5 irregularly-shaped lobes with bristle tips; the other is pear-shaped with 3 rounded lobes toward the end. They are 5-9" long and 4-5" wide. The oval to round acorn is less than 1" long and wide. Its warty, bowl-shaped cap has hairs covering the top 1/3 of the nut. It's produced as a single or in pairs.
Willow Oak, Quercus phellos - This deciduous native in the red oak group is frequently found growing near swamps, streams, or canals. The willowy-looking leaves are 4-5" long and 1" wide with bristles at the tip. The leaves are light green above and paler below. The small rounded, brown acorn measures less than 1" long and wide. The cap is scaly and bowl-like and striated with brown and black bands covering about 1/4 of the nut. They are produced as a single or in pairs.
All of these oaks and their acorns can be seen in the Walking Garden at the Pitt County Arboretum. More information about them can be found in the NC Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox at https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/ More information can be found at: https://treeidentificationapp.com/blog/how-to-identify-acorn https://extension.msstate.edu/blogs/extension-for-real-life/how-identify-oak-trees-using-acorns https://www.fieldbook-app.com/blog/acorn-identification
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Joanne K., Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Gardeners are always on the lookout for any diseases or insects that might threaten the health of their plants. Ones that look particularly alarming are galls that can be found growing on shrubs, trees, and perennials. These odd-shaped growths look like balls, warts, or knots appearing on stems, leaves, and other plant parts. They are caused by bacteria, fungi, insects, mites, or viruses. According to the NC Extension Handbook, stem galls are swellings, usually woody, that grow on stems. Leaf galls are swellings on leafy tissues. Galls are caused by specific species, which have specific hosts. These species, such as wasps, lay eggs onto a flower, stem, or leaf of their preferred plant host. The larvae inject chemicals into the plant tissues to form the galls, which house and feed them until they are mature. Galls can appear in different seasons and have different appearances determined by the species. Bacteria and viruses form galls by entering through cuts in the plant.
Whether a fungus or a bacteria forms the Forsythia gall is the question. These knobby growths appear on forsythia stems and twigs and may cause die back. Protecting the plant from injury is recommended along with removing the infected stems.  Gall on forsythia (Forsythia) may be caused by a fungus or a bacteria - Joanne K.
diseased cuttings in the trash. Do not compost them. Sanitize your pruners with 70% rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution after each cut to avoid spreading the infection.
Most galls are harmless and some are actually useful. For thousands of years, galls have been used to treat health problems such as digestive issues, diabetes, and inflamed tissues. In some cultures, oak galls have been used to make inks and dyes. Some birds, like goldfinches, and mammals, like voles, feast on the nutrient-rich galls. See the references below for more information about these galls. https://site.extension.uga.edu/benhillcoag/2023/04/exobasidium-leaf-and-flower-galls-azalea-leaf-gall-camellia-leaf-gall/ https://extension.illinois.edu/plant-problems/cedar-quince-rust https://lee.ces.ncsu.edu/news/the-gall-of-it-galls-on-forsythia/ https://plantclinic.tamu.edu/calendar2020/agrobactvitis/bcg_rose/ Joanne K., Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Not every garden plant must flower to enliven the landscape. Found in bogs, meadows, thickets, swamps, and woodlands, wild native ferns are a great addition to any garden. Their feathery fronds add texture, height, and motion to the garden. In winter, evergreen ferns bring a splash of color to the landscape. They create a backdrop for smaller perennials and wildflowers and provide ground cover and shelter for wildlife. Of course, native ferns should not be dug up in the wild, but purchased from nurseries and garden centers. Eastern North Carolina has a number of native ferns that will grow well in a variety of soils. The following ferns are perennials that thrive in moist areas of partial to deep shade. All reproduce by leaf spores and some also by rhizomes. None have any serious insect or disease issues.
Resurrection fern, Pleopeltis michauxiana, is an unusual fern as its name indicates. Once established it's very drought tolerant. However, it goes dormant during dry spells looking very desiccated and can lose up to 97% of its moisture. However, with a little rain, it turns into a lush, vibrant green plant. It grows on rough tree bark or rocks by rhizomes that spread into tree or rock crevices. An epiphyte or air plant, its nutritional needs are taken from the air and rain without hurting the tree.  The bright green frond of the Southern lady fern, Athyrium asplenioides, provides contrast in the shade garden. Jaknouse, Public Domain Mark 1.0 Southern lady fern, Athyrium asplenioides, is deciduous and can be found growing in moist soils in thickets, woods, and meadows. Over time it creates a thick ground cover through underground rhizomes. Its bright green lacy fronds grow 2 to 3 feet high. It's recommended to plant it out of the wind to prevent the fronds from breaking. Later in the summer, when the fronds look ragged, cut them back to encourage fresh new growth. It attracts frogs, but deer and rabbits leave it alone.
Cinnamon fern, Osmundastrum cinnamomeum, is so named because its spore-bearing fronds which emerge as silver fiddleheads turn green and then cinnamon brown in early spring. The sterile fronds are yellowish-green turning bright yellow in the fall before dying back for the winter. An easy-to-grow fern, it prefers moist, shady areas where it forms 2- to 3-foot tall clumps. Although slow to settle in, it's a long-lived fern. Birds use the fuzz from the young fiddleheads to build nests but deer avoid it.  The glossy leathery fronds of the Christmas fern, Polystichum acrostichoides, provide winter interest in the garden. Suzanne Cadwell, CC BY-NC 2.0 Christmas fern, Polystichum acrostichoides, grows in rosettes that form clumps over time. In the spring, new fronds are silver in color. It can be found growing in swamps, thickets, and along stream banks. In the garden, it combats soil erosion when planted on hillsides. In winter, this perennial provides shelter for songbirds who use its fronds for nest building. Deer may nibble on it, but rabbits and squirrels avoid it.  The New York fern, Thelypteris noveboracensis, is a good filler plant in the spring garden. Homer Edward Price, CC BY 4.0 New York fern, Thelypteris noveboracensis, a deciduous native of the eastern U.S. and Canada, is also native to China and the Russian Far East. This soft yellow-green fine-textured fern grows 1-2 feet tall. It spreads through rhizomes creating thick clumps that provide shelter for wildlife. Birds use it to build nests. It's resistant to deer. If it becomes too aggressive in the garden, it can be separated.
For more information about these and other ferns, go to the NC Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox at https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/ Joanne K., Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Nothing is more entertaining than watching the aerial ballets of hummingbirds as they swoop to and fro sipping nectar from flower to flower. These acrobats can hover in mid air beating their wings 50 times a second. Their agility extends to flying backwards, upwards, and upside down.  A hummingbird sipping nectar from a Trumpet flower, Bignonia capreolata - Kelly Colgan Azar, Flickr CC BY-ND 2.0
Hummers are important pollinators in the ecosystem helping plants to grow. To fuel their almost nonstop motion, a lot of nectar is required. Before leaving in the fall, they need to double their body mass by eating nectar and insects. According to the National Audubon Society, hummers must eat every 10 minutes or so, visiting between 1,000-2,000 flowers a day. To attract hummingbirds to your garden plant a variety of vibrantly colored flowers, especially red ones, in large swaths. From April through September plan for continuous blooms to support the hummers from spring arrival to nesting to feeding for the long flight to overwinter in Mexico and Central America. Tubular flowers, in particular, are favored by hummingbirds. Single flowers rather than double flowers are best. Double flowers have multiple petals or layers like roses or camellias that are very showy but offer little to no pollen or nectar for pollinators.
For your feeders, use a 4-to-1 mix of hot water to white sugar. Cool before using. Never add honey or any other sweeteners or red dyes as they spoil easily. Keep refrigerated. Change out and clean the feeder at least once a week or more frequently when the weather is extremely hot. Use a 4-to-1 solution of water to vinegar to clean the feeder and rinse thoroughly several times before adding the sugar water. Don't spray your plants with insecticides as hummingbirds eat the insects for their nutritional needs. Young hummingbirds are fed almost exclusively with insects. Also avoid herbicides as they linger in flowers where the hummers will ingest the poison when sipping the nectar. Also don't spray on or around the hummingbird feeder.  Ruby-throated hummingbird feeding on 'Black and Blue' Salvia, Salvia guaranitica - University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension Horticulture
For more information
Plant-Lover's Tour - 'Hummingbird Plants' at the JC Raulston Arboretum YouTube channel on June 11, 2026?Mark Weathington, director of the JC Raulston Arboretum, hosts a great tour of hummingbird plants at the Raulston Arboretum. Go to https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/ for more information about the above plants. https://www.audubon.org/content/how-create-hummingbird-friendly-yard https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/hummingbirds-and-butterflies https://www.plantdelights.com/blogs/articles/top-hummingbird-attracting-plants?srsltid=AfmBOormoKz6D6omvdHCSGLX9w5hMTWBDiRP7ZfmiZlv_FN3MqQ6uonk https://transylvania.ces.ncsu.edu/news/get-ready-the-hummingbirds-are-coming/ Joanne K., Pitt County Extension Master Garden Volunteer Bright orange trumpets winding through trees and shrubs are now blooming along the greenway, in wooded areas around Greenville, and maybe even on a fence in your backyard. This beauty is the trumpet vine (Campsis radicans), a native vine loved by pollinators. Native vines are critical to the survival of native pollinators like birds, insects, and mammals as they provide the sustenance needed for their survival.
When considering adding native vines for more color and diversity in your garden, bear in mind that they should be obtained from nurseries that propagate native plants. Digging them up in the wild diminishes the diversity of that area opening up space for weeds to sprout. Transplants from the wild frequently die when removed from that area. Also, some native plants, including some vines, are on the legally protected list maintained by the NC Natural Heritage Program (https://www.ncnhp.org/media/833/open) so it is illegal to harvest them in the wild. Also, be careful not to introduce invasive vines to your garden. Well-known culprits include Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), English ivy (Hedera helix), and Asian wisterias (Wisteria floribunda and Wisteria sinensis). Help in identifying these invaders can be found at NC Invasive Plant Council, NC Native Plant Society, and NC Forest Service. Of course, vines need space and/or a structure to grow on. Some vines can be planted in open areas and grow as ground covers on slopes or banks. Other vines need a wall, fence, trellis, or arbor for support. Vines can hide an ugly fence, provide screening from the neighbor's backyard, or offer shade under an arbor. Vines also introduce a vertical element in your garden design, which can maximize planting space in small gardens. All of the following vines are perennials that will return once established. Water regularly the first year. After that normal rainfall should suffice. All will grow in full sun to part shade in average, well-drained soil. Also, all of these vines have a high flammability rating and should not be planted close to your home or other outdoor structures.
naturalize as it spreads rapidly by underground runners. On structures it climbs by axillary tendrils. The leaves are poisonous to humans, children, cats, dogs, and horses. It's moderately deer resistant.
well-drained soil. With more sunlight, it produces more flowers. It spreads by seed and root suckers. Pull up the suckers to keep it under control. White-tailed deer and beavers eat the foliage.
Also it shouldn't be grown near honeybee colonies as its pollen is toxic to bees.
For more information about growing these vines, go to the NC Plant Toolbox at https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu.
Joanne K., Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Does your garden need some new life? Is it too much the same throughout? Maybe it's a little too flat in appearance? If so, consider adding more texture to your garden to heighten its contrast and curb appeal. Flower color always draws the eye to the garden, but it is very ephemeral. Even in the four-season garden, there are times when there is little to no color to be seen. However, garden textures are always there year round providing structure and visual interest to the garden. Texture in the garden is developed by using plants with a variety of leaf sizes, shapes, surfaces (shiny, matte, or hairy), textures (fine vs. coarse; rough vs. smooth), and densities. Trees, evergreens, shrubs, perennials, ferns, vines, grasses, and ground covers can all work together to enhance the texture of your garden.
Sometimes just the addition of one or two of these elements can make a big difference. Look for plants that are interesting even when not in flower like ferns, grasses, and evergreens. The beautiful reddish peeling bark of the Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum) adds a coarse element throughout the year while the finely serrated leaves of the Japanese Maple (Acer japonicus) add an airy lightness to the spring and summer gardens. Large-leafed shrubs like Oak Leaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) with their pyramidal flowers create a bold statement that draws attention, while variegated-leaf shrubs like perennial aucubas give a pop of color year round.
When the wind blows, the swaying of fern fronds adds motion to the landscape while delicate cut ferns like Maidenhair Ferns and coarser fronds like those of the Autumn Fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) provide contrast to smoother foliage in the garden. Hellebore flowers in a variety of colors bloom for several months while their evergreen foliage makes them excellent choices for contrast when paired with variegated perennials or planted under deciduous trees.
Ground covers like the ice plant, sedums, and alyssum create thick carpets with a variety of textures that fill in under larger plants helping to create a rich, layered look to the garden. In front of the Pitt County Extension Office is the Arboretum Welcome Garden that combines bulbs, shrubs, trees, ground covers, and annuals in different heights with various leaf sizes, textures, densities, and color for greater visual interest in all seasons.  Arboretum Welcome Garden, Joanne K. From front to back, this spring view of the section to the right of the Extension entrance includes the strappy foliage of daffodils planted for winter color; Hillside Sheffield Pink mums for their rounded shape and fall color; semievergreen Kaleidiscope Abelia with variegated leaves that change color from spring through fall; deciduous Pugster Blue Buddleja whose thick stems provide winter structure with its fragrant blue flowers blooming into fall; and the winter-blooming white flowers of Star Magnolia. The Arboretum's Mixed Border Garden behind the Extension building features a variety of trees, shrubs, and perennials demonstrating how much more visually interesting a mixed border can be compared to one planted with just one species. This section of the Mixed Border Garden features Japanese Privettes fronted by a JULIA CHILD Floribunda Rose, Carolina Moonlight Baptisia, Hybrid Wild Indigo, and daffodils. Year round the privettes provide an evergreen background for spring-flowering daffodils, JULIA CHILD rose, and baptisia and the early summer flowers of the wild indigo. The blue-green foliage of the baptisia is attractive all year.  Arboretum Mixed Border Garden, Joanne K. Stroll through your garden to see where plants with more texture will give it a new look. Then plan a visit soon to the Pitt County Arboretum to explore the many textures on display throughout the gardens that will inspire ideas for new additions to your landscape.
By Joanne K, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer, Pitt County Extension Office One of the first surprises for Northerners moving South is the sight of beautiful flowers blooming in January. One of the best is the beloved camellia with cultivars whose bloom times span the seasons from early fall into late spring adding vibrant color to the landscape. Their flowers are also important providers of nectar for bees when little else is blooming. More than 1000 years ago, wild species of this evergreen native of southeastern Asia were selected and bred by the Chinese and Japanese to develop the cultivars grown today. With more than 200 species and thousands of cultivars worldwide, the most common ones grown in eastern NC can be divided into two groups based on bloom time.
Fragrant Camellia sasanqua blooms from September through December. Its flowers are single or semi-double in pink, white, or a combination of the two. While smaller than the japonica flower, it sports more blooms. Sasanqua tolerates more sun than other camellias but does best with afternoon shade.
Camellia japonica may bloom as early as October and end in March. Its flowers may be single, semi-double, double, formal double, or full peony form. Colors range from pure white, pink, and red to color variations. Japonica grows best in dappled shade. Camellias are slow growers, but heavy feeders. According to NC State Extension, the time to fertilize camellias is after they finish blooming in March and April and before they put out new growth.  Camellia japonica 'Grace Albritton', skdavidson, CC BY-SA 2.5 In May, an optional application can be applied. Finally, in early July, fertilizer can be applied again to promote bud development. Don't fertilize after July to avoid promoting new growth that could be damaged by cold weather.
Look for slow-release fertilizers for acid-loving plants like camellias, azaleas, and rhododendrons. Before applying, clear the mulch back to the drip line—that's the farthest point to which the plant's branches extend. This is where water drips off the leaves into the shallow feeder roots that absorb the nutrients feeding the plant. Follow the label instructions and apply it directly on top of the soil. After that, water thoroughly to allow it to reach the roots. The mulch can then be raked back in place. Leaving the mulch in place when fertilizing reduces its effectiveness. Camellias bloom on old wood. Be careful to prune shortly after the plant finishes flowering to avoid cutting off the buds for next year's flowers. Pruning is done to shape and control the size of the shrubs. Diseased, dead, or damaged branches can be cut back at any time. Camellias are susceptible to a variety of insects, diseases, and plant problems. Scale is a common insect problem. Aphids and spider mites may be problems. Various fungal diseases can also plague camellias. Clemson Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information Center has a fact sheet detailing common camellia diseases and insect pests at https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/camellia-diseases-insect-pests/ Gardeners can also contact the Pitt County Master Gardener Information Line for help at 252-902-1700. At the Pitt County Arboretum, camellias grow in the Perennial Border and the Walking Garden. In Manteo, NC, the Elizabethan Gardens feature more than 85 varieties of camellias encircling the Great Lawn. Beginning in the fall and continuing into spring, this gorgeous display of color with a wide variety of flower shapes and sizes is well worth a trip to Manteo. https://www.outerbanks.org/things-to-do/museums-and-historic-sites/the-elizabethan-gardens/ For more information NC Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: https://emgintranet.ces.ncsu.edu/ A Gardener's Guide to Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs: https://eit-wagpress-prod.s3.amazonaws.com/media/documents/a-gardeners-guide-to-fertilizing-trees-and-shrubs.pdf Joanne K., Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer "I think that I shall never see A poem lovely as a tree." These opening lines of the classic poem "Trees" by Joyce Kilmer perfectly express the love that gardeners have for trees in our gardens. The winter silhouettes of deciduous trees, the early spring flowers of dogwoods and cherries, the gorgeous oranges, reds, and yellows of fall leaves all add to the beauty of our landscapes. Early spring is an ideal time to add this beauty to your landscape. Planting trees in cooler temperatures when they are dormant allows the roots to settle in before the stress of summer heat and humidity takes hold. Trees benefit the environment in many ways. Their beauty enhances the appearance of gardens and neighborhoods making them inviting places to live and visit. Studies have shown that time spent outdoors reduces stress and enhances mental well-being. In addition, trees add so much value to your property and the environment by providing cooling shade in the summer, screening for privacy, nesting sites for birds, food for pollinators and wildlife, wind protection, removal of air pollutants, improvement of soil health, and storm water filtration. Native trees are particularly valuable landscape additions as they evolved over thousands of years adapting to the local environment without human manipulation. That has acclimated them to local climates, soils, and other environmental factors. As such, they are vital to a healthy ecosystem supporting pollinators, birds, insects, birds, and mammals. The following are some native trees to add to your landscape.
Redbud, Cercis canadensis, is flowering now in eastern NC. It's a slow-growing tree reaching from 15 to 30 feet high. It grows best in full sun to partial shade in moist soil. Reddish-purple flowers appear along the branches ahead of the leaves. It's a favorite of native bees and other pollinators. It's a host plant for 12 species of the butterflies and moths, including Henry's Elfin Butterfly (Callophrys henrici) and the Redbud Leaffolder Moth (Fasciata cercerisella). Fringe Tree, Chionanthus virginicus, is a deciduous tree growing 12 to 20 feet tall forming a wide multi-stemmed shape. It grows in average, well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. Its fragrant, creamy white flowers bloom in late spring. Its blue-black fruits provide nutrition for birds and wildlife.
Eastern Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana, is an evergreen in the cypress family. This juniper tolerates a wide variety of soils growing up to 30 to 40 feet tall with a width of 10 to 20 feet. Although viewed as weedy by some gardeners, it's a tough, dependable salt-tolerant tree. The small, round blue cones ("juniper berries") of the female tree are favored by cedar waxwings. For the Juniper hairstreak and the Imperial moth, it's a host plant for their moth larvae. Carolina Silverbell, Halesia carolina, grows best in moist soil in partial shade as heat and drought stress it. In summer, it will need additional watering. Its height varies from 10 to 40 feet tall, but it frequently grows in a multi-stemmed shrubby form. Its white bell-shaped flowers are a magnet for hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.
Colonists called the Sweet Bay Magnolia the "Beaver Tree" because its fleshy roots were used as bait in beaver traps. Sweet Bay Magnolia, Magnolia virginiana, Jim Robbins, CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 For more information on planting trees and on native plants, go to the following links:
https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/11-woody-ornamentals https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/12-native-plants https://gardening.ces.ncsu.edu/gardening-plants/trees-3/ https://ncwf.org/habitat/native-pollinator-plants/trees/ Joanne K., Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Year-round landscape color is a goal of many gardeners, but some seasons, such as winter, are more challenging than others. Here in Eastern NC we have gorgeous camellia varieties that start blooming in red, white, and pink in the fall and continue into spring. But what other plants can brighten the winter scene? Luckily for us our planting zone between 8a and 8b is mild enough to support a number of colorful plants from late fall into early spring. The following are some shrubs that shine this time of year.
During the winter, the flowers and/or berries of all of these plants provide critical sustenance for a variety of pollinators, including birds, bees, and butterflies, when other food sources are scarce. Additionally, the evergreen shrubs provide shelter and protection for birds and wildlife from the cold and predators.
Adding one or more of these plants to your landscape will not only enliven it with cheerful winter color but also provide essential nutrients and/or cover for our pollinators. For more information about these plants, go to the NC Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox at https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants. Also, take a trip to the Pitt County Arboretum to see its winter blooms. Joanne K., Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Visitors to the South are frequently surprised to see long squiggly gray clumps dripping from trees, fences, and telephone poles and wonder what they are. Those wild-looking masses are Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides), a signature plant of the South. A native of the southern U.S., the stems of Spanish moss form curtains up to 20 feet long, creating its distinctive beard-like appearance. Spanish moss can be found from southern Virginia to eastern Texas growing along the moist coastal regions. It's also native throughout much of Mexico and Central and South America.
Birds and the wind can also carry tiny pieces of moss to new areas to produce new plants. Another means of propagation is to tear off a piece of the plant and put it on some type of support. The adult plant does not have aerial roots. Instead, it has specialized gray scales on its stems and leaves to absorb the moisture and nutrients from the environment needed to thrive. Although they are normally a gray color, these scales will turn green when it rains. High humidity is required for Spanish moss to grow. During droughts it goes dormant until the rain returns.
In the early 20th century, Spanish moss factories were common throughout Florida and Louisiana. These factories harvested, processed, and marketed Spanish moss for many uses, such as insulation, packing materials, bedding, rope, and stuffing for furniture and car seats. The development of synthetic products for these purposes ended this business in mid-century.
According to Vince Bells, retired ECU botanist, John Lawson, the Englishman who explored the Carolinas in the early 1700s, noted in his journal that the Indians used it to thatch roofs and diaper babies. Spanish moss is now used mainly for decorative purposes or craft projects. Some bat species roost in Spanish moss clumps, while birds like yellow-throated warblers build their nests inside them. Other birds, like Baltimore orioles, use the moss to build nests. Chiggers and spiders may be found in the moss so wearing gloves is advised when handling it. If grown outside in the home garden, Spanish moss doesn't require watering or fertilizing. If grown indoors, it requires bright, indirect light and humid conditions. Allow the plant to dry in between waterings and feed periodically with a half-strength liquid fertilizer. While some may see Spanish moss as a Halloween decoration, others appreciate its ethereal aura signifying that you are in the South! |
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The primary contributor to the Pitt County Arboretum blog is Joanne K. Other Master Gardeners also write blogs on occasion. Archives
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