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Director's Choice

Oakleaf Hydrangea, my favorite hydrangea

3/28/2024

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By Matt S., County Extension Director and Horticulture Agent, Pitt County

Hydrangeas are one of the most popular southern landscape plants, and with good reason. Their large colorful flower heads are impossible to ignore, and the subtle changes in color at different stages in their long bloom period are a trait that very few plants offer. When most gardeners think of hydrangeas, it is the mophead type, Hydrangea macrophylla, that generally comes to mind. While the mopheads are excellent plants, my favorite has always been the Oakleaf hydrangea, a southeastern U.S. native.

Oakleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) are notable for many characteristics, but let’s start with the one that gives them their name. Rather than a pointed, oval-shaped leaf like the mophead, Oakleaf Hydrangea has a large leaf with many rounded lobes, making it resemble that of a White Oak. We don’t often talk about leaf shape as being a focal point in landscaping, but plants like Oakleaf Hydrangea and Japanese Fatsia make landscapes interesting even when not in bloom, simply by looking different from the plants nearby.
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Oakleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) are native to the South Eastern USA.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a hydrangea without a large, impactful bloom. Oakleaf Hydrangeas generally start blooming in late May or early June. Flowers are white and the individual blossoms form large panicles that are more conical than rounded. Flower clusters can reach as long as 12 inches and are 3 to 4 inches wide. Petals will gradually fade to a rosy pink color during the summer, before finishing almost tan in fall. Their flowers may have a light fragrance, though it is not overwhelming. Many gardeners like to use the flowers for drying, as they hold up well after cutting.

To me though, what really sets the Oakleaf Hydrangea apart from its relatives is the amazing fall color it generates in October and November. As temperatures cool and days shorten, the leaves change from their usual dark green to an almost purplish-red. In the early stages of this change, the veins on each leaf will often stay green for several days after the rest of the leaf has turned color, which makes a unique sort of variegated look not typically seen among plants in fall. In many landscapes, Oakleaf Hydrangea is the most eye-catching plant during late fall.

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Oakleaf Hydrangea "Little Honey"
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Oakleaf Hydrangea "Pee Wee"
Oakleaf Hydrangea is a native plant that performs fantastically in our area. Unlike Hydrangea macrophylla, which is typically one of the first plants to droop during periods of dry weather, Oakleaf Hydrangeas are tolerant of a wide range of climate and soil conditions and free of any major insect and disease pests. Nurseries and plant propagators will report that Oakleaf Hydrangea can be a bit difficult to get started, but once it makes it into the ground at your home, it will almost certainly be problem free.

Most Oakleaf Hydrangea will grow to about 6-8 feet high and wide, though there are cultivars that are smaller. ‘Pee Wee’ is a popular dwarf cultivar, and ‘Little Honey’ is a semi-dwarf type with golden yellow foliage during the summer.

Matthew Stevens is the County Extension Director and Horticulture Agent for North Carolina Cooperative Extension’s Pitt County Center.  If you have questions about this article or gardening in general, please contact the Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Infoline at 252-902-1705.  

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In Praise of the Mighty Muscadine

3/22/2024

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 By Matt. S.
      You can’t travel far in northeastern North Carolina without passing a home with muscadine grapes growing in the backyard. Many of those vines we see have been growing for decades and the care of them has been passed down from one family member to the next. Or, perhaps, been forgotten. 

Muscadine grapes are native to North Carolina and the southeastern United States. The first cultivated variety of muscadine was a bronze selection, discovered in Tyrrell County, NC in 1760 and named Scuppernong. In 2001, the North Carolina General Assembly named the Scuppernong grape the official state fruit. Scuppernong and
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Muscadine grapes (vitis rotundifolia) growing on a trellis
other assorted varieties of muscadines are harvested throughout North Carolina from August through early October.
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Cluster of grapes
Muscadine grapes are large, thick-skinned grapes that typically contain four large seeds and grow in loose clusters. Unlike bunch grapes that are harvested by clipping whole bunches from the vine, muscadines are usually harvested as individual berries. This broad category of grape includes many cultivars of both bronze and black
grapes (again, Scuppernong is a variety of muscadine, not an entirely separate type, as some mistakenly believe). Both bronze and black muscadines make wonderful jams, jellies, pies, juices, and wines.
Grapes produce fruit on new growth and therefore need to be pruned yearly to maintain regular fruit production. Grapes that have been unpruned for many years will gradually become less productive, as these vines will have less and less new growth each year. The exact style of pruning depends on how the grapes have been trained. The most efficient training method for fruit production is to grow the grapes on a trellis resembling a clothesline and shape the vine such that its trunk and two main branches for the shape of the letter T. Many side shoots will sprout from each of the two main branches, with some stretching to as long twelve feet in a given year. Each of those side shoots can be pruned back to about 3-4 inches. Late January through February is generally the best time to prune. The vine will appear nearly bare following pruning, but will quickly replenish when new growth starts in spring. You may see some sap drip or bleed from the freshly cut vines. A small amount of bleeding is normal and shouldn’t be much cause for worry, but the warmer the temperatures, the more bleeding you’ll see from each pruning cut. This is why pruning is best done in the dormant winter season before spring begins.

Many older vines were trained to trail along arbors rather than trellises, meaning much of their growth is overhead and thus pruning can be a bit trickier.  A good strategy when grapes have been trained this way is to follow along the outside edge of the arbor and prune any growth that falls outside the edge. This will encourage new growth along the outside of the arbor, and harvesting grapes should be fairly easy.
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Ready to pick
While regular pruning is needed to encourage the new growth that ultimately produces fruit, keep in mind that if vines have gone many years between trimmings, heavy pruning will sometimes cause a temporary setback in fruit production. If you can’t remember the last time your vines have been pruned, but they still produce a small amount of fruit each year, you may consider dividing the structure the vines are growing on into thirds and pruning one section each year, so that the vines can be rejuvenated without completely missing out on fruit for a year or two.  
    
Matthew Stevens is the County Extension Director and Horticulture Agent for North Carolina Cooperative Extension’s Pitt County Center.  If you have questions about this article or gardening in general, please contact the Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Infoline at 252-902-1705.  
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Mockorange: Fragrant and Out of Fashion

3/13/2024

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By Matt Stevens, County Extension Director and Horticulture Agent, Pitt County

In some ways, the plant world is no different from the worlds of music, fashion, and art. Things go in and out of style.  Many plants that are common now weren’t often used in landscapes twenty or thirty years ago, while many that were more en vogue back then are rarely seen now. One such relic of landscapes past is the Mockorange (Philadelphus coronarius). In fact, it was already a bit of a relic 30 years ago when I started paying attention to plants.
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Arching blooms of the mockorange shrub (Philadelphus coronarius)
Mockorange is a medium to large sized shrub prized for its fragrant white blooms in late spring and early summer. The flowers look similar to orange blossoms, and give off a strong citrusy smell, which explains the origin of its name. When in full bloom the scent is strong, and unlike many fragrant bloomers, it doesn’t seem to fade during the latter half of its bloom period.
Despite its attractive flowers and beloved fragrance, Mockorange has fallen out of favor to some extent because it offers little else of ornamental value to gardens. Once the flowers have gone, all that’s left is green foliage, making it no different from any number of other mid-size shrubs in summer and fall. It’s not unattractive once the foliage is gone, just bland. That said, there’s still a place for plants like that in landscapes. We still use forsythia, after all.  Mockorange just may not be a fit in every garden.

The trick to incorporating Mockorange in your landscape is threefold. First, you’ll need a spot where it has enough room to grow to its full size of 6-10 feet high and wide. Next, you’ll want that spot to be somewhere that you’ll pass by when the plant is in bloom so that
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Four petaled white flowers appear in small clusteres
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Mockorange foliage
you can enjoy its fragrance. Lastly, you’ll want that spot to also be somewhere that the Mockorange can hide amongst other plants after it has finished blooming and become less interesting. Mixed borders, where there are several different types of shrubs planted together, are good places to locate Mockorange. If placed on the back edge of such a border, you can walk along the back edge to enjoy the fragrance but view the border from the front during the remainder of the year.
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Philadelphus 'Snow White Fantasy'
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Philadelphus coronarius 'Aureus'
Though Mockorange is a bit of an old-time plant, a few newer hybrid cultivars have been introduced to the nursery trade. ‘Snow White Fantasy’ is a 5 foot-tall cultivar with double flowers.  While double flowers are often less fragrant than single ones, ‘Snow White Fantasy’ has excellent fragrance.  ‘Snowbelle’ is another double flowering variety with good fragrance that grows only to 3-4 feet tall. With their smaller size, either of these cultivars is a little easier to incorporate into the average landscape than is the standard mockorange. Additionally, ‘Icezam’ is a cultivar with white and green leaf variegation, and ‘Aureus’ has chartreuse-colored leaves.  Their additional aesthetic characteristics and multi-season interest make ‘Icezam’ and ‘Aureus’ more appealing in modern landscapes than the standard Mockorange.

Matthew Stevens is the County Extension Director and Horticulture Agent for North Carolina Cooperative Extension’s Pitt County Center.  If you have questions about this article or gardening in general, please contact the Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Infoline at 252-902-1705.

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Strawberry Bush, a really cool native plant

3/2/2024

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By Matt Stevens, County Extension Director and Horticulture Agent, Pitt County

The many benefits of using native plants in landscapes instead of non-natives are often touted by native plant enthusiasts. Many will tell you that natives are better adapted to our local climate and to our local soils, that they have fewer pest problems, and that they are less invasive. I don’t mean to sound skeptical, as I believe these claims are indeed true, provided the native plants are planted in the right locations (more on that in a minute), but one of the often overlooked reasons to plant natives is that many of them are simply really cool plants. I’ve always been drawn to plants that are just a little bit odd, and our native Euonymus americanus, aka Strawberry bush or Heart’s-a-bursting, is certainly one that fits that category. 
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Strawberry Bush, Euonymus americanus fruits and leaves
First off, you might recognize the name Euonymus from other more common landscape plants such as the variegated low-growing Euonymus fortunei (Wintercreeper euonymus), or the more upright evergreen shrub Euonymus japonicus (Japanese euonymus), or the semi-invasive but spectacularly fall-colored Euonymus alatus (Burning bush). Strawberry bush is related to all
of these, but will bear little immediate resemblance to any of them in most gardeners’ eyes.

Though most of the other Euonymus species are rather densely foliated, Strawberry bush has an open, almost airy form, with relatively delicate leaves. Both leaves and stems are the same shade of kelly green, with only the oldest stems having a more traditional brown twig color. The leaves are deciduous and have a reddish fall color. Strawberry bush has tiny white flowers during May, though they are not overwhelmingly eye-catching.  
What makes Strawberry bush interesting, and what gives it its common name, is the fruit that follows the flowers. In fall, a pinkish-red capsule that looks a little bit like a strawberry if you squint hard enough, splits open to reveal 4-5 small orange-red berries inside.  Its other common
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The fruit that follows the flowers
name, Hearts-a-bursting, is a reference to the appearance of the fruit after it’s split open. The fruit aren’t as abundant on each bush as the berries on a holly or beautyberry bush, but they are the type of thing that you see and immediately say, “What the heck is that?”
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The strawberry bush's immature fruit
As I mentioned, placement of natives is important.  If you take a native plant that likes wet soil and shade and plant it in a hot, dry, sunny location, it’s not going to thrive, native or not. People make this mistake with dogwoods all the time, and much of the benefit of being native is lost due to poor
placement. Strawberry bush grows best in partial shade and moist soils. Some resources will tell you that they can also tolerate drought and full sun, but I have never seen one thriving in those conditions and thus it seems best to plant them in our landscapes in areas similar to where they grow naturally–moist, wooded areas with high organic matter soils.

Matthew Stevens is the County Extension Director and Horticulture Agent for North Carolina Cooperative Extension’s Pitt County Center.  If you have questions about this article or gardening in general, please contact the Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Infoline at 252-902-1705.
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    Matt Stevens

    Pitt County Extension Director & Horticulture Agent

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  • Home
  • What's In Bloom
  • About
    • Staff
    • Master Gardeners
    • Map
    • Stay in Touch
  • Visit
    • Visitor Information
    • Visitor Etiquette
    • Tours
    • Pitt County Agricultural Center
  • Our Gardens
    • Our Gardens
  • Blog
  • Director's Choice
  • Events
    • Calendar
    • Northside Plant Walks
  • Support
    • Plant Sale
    • Friends of the Arboretum >
      • Membership
      • Giving
    • Volunteer
  • Resources
    • Guides
    • Videos
    • Photo Gallery
  • Contact